Looking down into the Devil's Mustard Pot waterfall

Stenkrith Park Poetry Trail and The Devil’s Mustard Mill

What a super spot to explore in Kirkby Stephen! Stenkrith Park has a viaduct, incredible waterfall, which plunges into a deeply wooded gorge and so many stories to tell, poetry and all!

This walk has a longer and shorter version to suit the abilities of your Reluctant Explorers!

Stenkrith Park is a stunning little gem of a place on the edge of Kirkby Stephen.

The River Eden cuts through the middle of the park, beginning by coursing through the partially collapsed caves known as The Angels Drainpipe, which form part of the legendary ‘Devils Grinding Mill’ (Mustard Pot OR Coopkarnel hole dependant on what you read - pictured above, legends below!) This is the name given to the dramatic cascades as they pass through the perforated rock. In dryer spells, you’ll see huge pock marks created by churning water and swirling stones, as the water is forced through narrow rocky channels, which have been slowly carved out by steady erosion. You’ll find all of this underneath the impressive arches of one of the Eden Viaducts, as the river flows into a deep rocky gorge, creating a scene that is not unlike something out of Lord of the Rings!

It is also the home of the Poetry Trail. Another series of carved rocks, human made this time, positioned throughout the park. Each poem is reflective of the surrounding landscapes and there are plenty to spot along the way.

This walk has grown over the years, so now exists in two versions. One longer version that begins in Kirkby Stephen, which takes you on a folkloric tour of Kirkby Stephen and one which starts in Nateby. That’s the original version, which is perfect for younger explorers!

Oh, and there are stick dens. And geocaches. ON BOTH! So… LET’S GO!

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Thank you for taking the time to have a look at my website and for reading this now!

I set up the Reluctant Explorers and maintain the website and attached social media accounts in my spare time, around mum-life and two jobs. It was designed to provide access for parents to free resources to help get more families outside and exploring in nature. These walks have all been created by myself and the kids and we have walked each one ourselves (and re-walk them regularly to keep the information as up to date as we can).

If you would like to support us and can afford a few pennies, you can make a donation to our ‘Buy Me a Coffee’ page. Simply tap the button below to head there!

Child crouched on the edge of a rock looing at a river with a rocky gorge beyond with ivy trailing and green trees

Below Millennium Bridge when the water levels are low (never try crossing when the water levels are high)

Walk Details for the Stenkrith Park Poetry Trail

Distance: Short: 2 km (approximately 1.5 miles) Longer: 6 km (Approx 3.5 - 4 miles)

Terrain: Easy to follow and well walked paths. Some unevenness underfoot and can be muddy in places. Mainly flat with little ascent/ descent. Not pushchair friendly.

Parking: Short: The small car park next to the viaduct on Nateby Road. Longer: There is plenty of parking available in Kirkby Stephen town centre where the walk begins. We parked in the car park opposite the medical centre.

Public Transport: Kirkby Stephen is serviced by buses from Stagecoach and Western Dales Bus.

Dog friendly? Yes, dogs to be kept on leads.

Map: OS Explorer OL19 for the Howgills and Eden Valley affiliate link as an Ordnance Survey champion

Location: Nateby Road, or the Market Street of Kirkby Stephen

What 3 Words: eyelashes.chilled.hexes

Toilets/ Baby Change: None. Nearest is found in Kirkby Stephen.

Nearest Cafe/ Amenities: Kirkby Stephen.

child walking into a stick den

The large stick den that features at the start of the walk.

Looking at poetry carved into a large rock.

Looking at one of the poetry stones

Child crouching next to the water of the river with bridge behind playing with stones

By the water’s edge at Frank’s Bridge

Child walking across a wooden footbridge into woods

Walking across the wooden footbridge into the woodland after Frank’s Bridge

How to Walk to Stenkrith Park from Franks Bridge or Nateby

Directions to be used alongside a map

SHORT: From the car park at Millennium Bridge

  1. Beginning from the car park at Stenkrith Bridge, head down the ramp out of the car park. The start of the ramp is indicated by a large information board. Follow the ramp downwards as it heads under the Viaduct and along the old railway line. The path here is wide and well surfaced and can be accessible by pushchair (although the entirety of the walk is not pushchair friendly)

  2. Continue straight on with the River Eden on your left, here you will see a large stick den (pictured) and a few of the pieces of poetry too.

  3. After around a third of a km, you will see a bridge over the old railway line. There is a path heading up the right hand side, through a gate at the top. On the other side of the gate you will see a waymarker for the Poetry Path. Turn left and head over the bridge.

  4. After the bridge, the path turns into a wide walled track. Continue along there and follow it past more poetry carvings, until you are faced with a fork in the path. Here, there is a signpost pointing in the direction of Hartley and Nateby. You will be taking the left fork (not in the direction of either Hartley OR Nateby) but going through a wooden gate.

  5. The path continues until it bends round to the left and crosses a footbridge over the Rive Eden. Cross the bridge and immediately turn left afterwards, continuing along the edge of the river. This will be on your left.

  6. Continue to follow the path along the side of the river until you reach the viaduct again. Here, head up the steep bank, heading firstly right, then turn left to head over the Millennium footbridge that spans the river, providing you with a great view of the Devils Grinding Mill, which is even better when it’s been raining!

  7. Then turn right and head back up the ramp to the car park.

Most recently walked May 2026.

LONGER ROUTE: From the Centre of Kirkby Stephen

  1. Wherever you manage to park, make your way to the Parish Church of Kirkby Stephen. Here, head into the church. There is a small museum area, where you’ll find the Loki Stone (more about that below) and the tusk of the last wild boar, apparently killed on Wild Boar Fell nearby in Mallerstang. There’s some fascinating history here, so make sure to check it out and make a donation to the church. This is the start point of the walk.

  2. From the church, head out of the Eastern gate to the lefthand side of the churchyard. You will head out onto Vicarage Lane. Here, turn right. You’ll see a small parking area ahead. Turn left and head downhill to Frank’s Bridge. On your left, you’ll see some steps and a blue plaque telling you about the fire at the candle factory that happened here. There’s also a handy signpost for Frank’s Bridge. Head down the steps and keep straight on. The footbridge is ahead.

  3. This bridge is pretty cool. It’s an old coffin route and it’s named after a local brewer, but did you know… it’s also haunted? More about that below too! For the kids? They’ll love a spot to throw some stones into the water!

  4. From the bridge, continue straight on along the riverside path. The path then splits into two. The straight on route is the Coast to Coast path. The right hand fork takes you in the direction of Nateby. You need to take the right hand route. It heads through a kissing gate and into a field. Head straight across the field and to a wooden gate at the far side.

  5. Head through the gate, across a wooden footbridge over the beck and then up the bank on the far side, bearing right.

  6. Continue to follow the path until you reach a crossroads of footpaths. A crosspaths as it were! The signpost here shows Hartley (the direction that you’ve come from) Kirkby Stephen and Nateby (straight on). Take the straight on route towards Nateby.

  7. The path is easy to follow and very clear. Continue straight on, passing over a little stream until you reach the crossing over the old railway line (no longer a railway line, this is now an old railway bridge over another footpath!) You’ll find a couple of the poetry stones along the way here.

  8. Shortly after the bridge, there is a gate to your right and a poetry trail sign, turn right and head down the path. It descends to what is the old railway line, but is now a surfaced walking route. Take a look back and you’ll see the old railway bridge you crossed, with that at your back, continue straight on, along the old railway line. You’ll soon spot more poetry rocks and a stick den!

  9. After a short distance, you’ll spot the Millennium Bridge and the Viaduct to your right The footbridge takes you over the Devil’s Mustard Pot. You’ll get an excellent view from above here! Turn right over the footbridge, then you need to turn right again (before the path heads up to the road.) It bends back towards the River Eden, and heads downhill.

  10. There is an opportunity to get down to the water here to get another view point of the gorge and bridge from below, but be VERY careful with kids. When the water levels are high, stay clear. When they are low (as pictured above) then it’s possible to get to the water’s edge, but there are dangerous currents and deep water, due to the cave system in the area.

  11. From here, follow the very clear footpath as it continues to follow the riverside (which is now on your right).

  12. You will soon reach a fork in the path. The right hand side heads through a waymarked wooden gate, keeping alongside the riverside. The path on your left is going through a metal gate, heading towards a hawthorn bush and going uphill. Take the left fork.

  13. Follow this uphill, to another gate and then head through this. Head left onto the stone track. Follow this to the road, turn right and head back into Kirkby Stephen!

Last walked May 2026.

the waymarker for the poetry path
Underneath the Devil's Grinding Mill waterfall during early Spring

Above: The waymarker for the Poetry Path

Left: At the bottom of the Devil’s Grinding Mill in early Spring. You can see the Millennium Bridge footbridge above, with the viaduct behind. The water levels here were quite high, as you can tell from the foam created on the water.

A stone carved with the image of Loki norse god in a church

The Loki Stone in Kirkby Stephen Parish Church

The Kid Friendly Interesting Bits

✨ There is a geocache to find on this walk! Simply download the app to find out more!

👻 This walk has legends!

The bizarre sounding waterfall on this walk is called the Devil’s Grinding Mill, Mustard Mill or Devil’s Hole for a reason (so legendary, they named it thrice) …. it’s because of the legends behind it. One such account is that the raging gorge was the unfortunate resting place of two lovers, who fell to their demise into the water. One version of this story is that the gentleman was call Deville and that he actually pushed his lover in, following her shortly after. The gorge has kept his name to this day.

The other version is that the sound of the rocks grinding against rock was in fact a portal to hell and that you could hear the sound of the Devil himself grinding his own personal supply of mustard. Wonder if he likes it in a ham sarnie….

What I do know, is that it is pretty spectacular after heavy rain and it’s definitely worth a stop even in drier weather, because then all of the arches and holes worn by the water and rock are visible!

I’m not stopping there though. The longer version of this walk has got a ghost story too! Frank’s Bridge is so-called after a local brewer and historically it was a coffin route. But have you heard the story of Jangling Annas? This poor soul escaped from imprisonment at nearby Hartley Castle, only to meet her end at Frank’s Bridge. The shackles she wore on her wrists and ankles weighed her down in the water and she sadly never made her successful escape. Her spirit haunts the bridge and the sound of her shackles live on…

BUT NOT EVEN JUST THAT!

At the start of the longer route, you’ll find the Loki Stone at the Parish Church of Kirkby Stephen. This incredibly rare carved stone dates back to the 900s and depicts the Norse God Loki (or so one theory goes). The stone was discovered when the church was being renovated, and the precise origin is unknown. There is only one other in the whole of Europe. Well worth a visit!

This is just PACKED with cool stories to tell right?

🏰 Kirkby Stephen is only a short distance away (or in fact at the start!) where you can find pubs, cafes, and the play park.

💦 There are places to get down to the edge of the water to throw stones and there are stick dens too!

🌳 why not try one of our walking games? Or you can download a free scavenger sheet!

Ordnance Survey Map of route

Want to grab the shorter route?

Head to the Ordnance Survey Navigation App where you can download the route!

(Always carry a back up map and know how to use it)

Image is Copyright courtesy of Ordnance Survey

Map of a route on an Ordnance Survey map

Want to grab the longer route?

Head to the Ordnance Survey Navigation App where you can download the route!

(Always carry a back up map and know how to use it)

Image is Copyright courtesy of Ordnance Survey

Helpful Information!

For more helpful information head to our safety tips and advice page.

⭐ We hope you enjoy our walks, but please exercise common sense as routes can change with the weather conditions and seasons! These walks are intended as a guide only and are undertaken at your own risk. The routes have been walked by our own two feet, but you know your own limits. If in doubt, turn back. Always take a back-up map, don’t rely on GPS or your phone alone, wear appropriate clothing for the weather and take adequate snacks and refreshments with you (although as a parent, I know you already know that bit!)

⭐ Leave no trace! Take nothing away and leave nothing behind, take all rubbish home with you.

⭐ If you choose to paddle, be aware of bio security. Always wear clean dry water shoes (if worn) to avoid cross contamination of species between watercourses, this is a particular issue in the Yorkshire Dales, to help protect the white clawed crayfish.

⭐ If you decide to paddle, be aware that wild water can be dangerous, and water levels will vary season to season. Always supervise children around water. Check out the safety information on the Royal Life Saving Society website.

Child leaping over two rocks with poetry engraved

Staying in the Westmorland Dales?

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Leave No Trace

The Yorkshire Dales is our home, and the home of so many others who care deeply about this beautiful space.

Should you visit, make sure to:

Take home anything you bring, leave no rubbish behind.

Make the world a better place by picking up any rubbish you see, even if it isn’t yours.

Leave everything else as you found it.

Help us to protect our wild spaces.